We made another stop on our 1,800-mile road trip to southern Utah … at Goosenecks State Park … having no idea what we were going to experience when we got there. It is not a large park by acreage or amenities but it packs a visual punch that leaves many travelers stunned. That now includes my wife and me.
This isn’t just a stop on your way through the Four Corners region to get to someplace else. It is a geological marvel that offers a raw, panoramic look at one of the most dramatic entrenched river meanders in the world. All of this is located and visible in a remote stretch of southeastern Utah overlooking the San Juan River.
Perched 1,100 feet above the twisting river below, Goosenecks State Park provides an unbroken view of what geologists call an “entrenched meander.” To the rest of us? It is simply an unforgettable view.
As we drove southwest from Blanding, Utah towards Mexican Hat on the way to Monument Valley, we knew we had to stop at Goosenecks regardless of how remote it may look on the map. It is, once again, our goal to visit every Utah State Park in person at least once.
Goosenecks State Park is found just 3 ½ miles west of Highway 163 between Bluff and Mexican Hat. The turn-off to the park is about 25 miles west of Bluff and 8 miles north of Mexican Hat.
From the moment you step out of your vehicle and walk to the edge of the overlook, you will see the San Juan River make a 12-mile journey that only covers 5 miles “as the crow flies.” The looping, horseshoe-shaped canyons give the park its name. It looks much like the necks of geese twisting back and forth in a narrow canyon.
It is a spot that’s been described as both “otherworldly” and “eerily peaceful.” There is no hiking necessary to experience the view. It is right there waiting for you. A short stroll to the edge of the parking lot reveals a panoramic vista that changes dramatically depending on the time of day, season and even the weather.
The Goosenecks were carved by the San Juan River over the last 300 million years according to geologists. These deep meanders were first established on a flat plain. They say that as the Colorado Plateau slowly rose over millions of years, the river cut downward into the rock to maintain its course etching these winding paths deep into the Earth's crust.
The exposed rock layers on the canyon walls are part of the Honaker Trail Formation which dates back to the Pennsylvanian period of about 300 million years ago. This is one of the best examples of so-called incised meanders in North America and it is no surprise the site is often used in geology textbooks.
Goosenecks is not your typical state park with visitor centers, interpretive trails or boat rentals. What it does offer is quiet, silence, solitude and stars.
It is one of the best stargazing sites in Utah and has been designated an International Dark Sky Park. On a moonless night, the Milky Way feels close enough to touch.
There are, though, a handful of primitive campsites (first-come, first-served) that put you right on the edge of the canyon. There is no water, no hookups and not even much shelter. For those who know what they’re in for, it is unforgettable.
You can always check the state website for updated fee information.
Note: The wind here can be strong and relentless and the guardrails are easy to bypass at the overlook. Keep small children and pets close to you and battened down.
Goosenecks is part of a wider region that invites exploration. Here are a few other attractions just a short drive away:
Standing at the overlook in Goosenecks State Park looking down on the San Juan River 1,100 feet below is breathtaking and almost a little unnerving for someone like me who doesn’t like heights.
There is a sizeable ledge below the sturdy railing that allows the adventurous to walk down a little lower and get a better view. That wasn’t for me. You can see a couple people below us in one of the photos above.
From Bluff, Utah:
From Mexican Hat, Utah:
Goosenecks State Park
c/o Edge of the Cedars State Park Museum (contact them)
San Juan County, Southeastern Utah
GPS: 37.1742° N, 109.9254° W
Phone: 435-678-2238
Website: https://stateparks.utah.gov/parks/goosenecks/