If you are looking for a drive that combines cinematic grandeur, cultural history and Utah’s timeless desert beauty, the Monument Valley to Bluff Scenic Byway … State Route 163 … is a must.
It stretches roughly 45 miles from the Arizona border to the small historic town of Bluff, Utah. But don’t let the short mileage fool you. You will want to take your time.
This is one of those rare drives that make you slow down, pull over, and say, “Wow.” Again and again. We just recently drove this Byway but in reverse. Obviously it is the same road so you’ll see the same things.
Things do, though, look a little different when you drive a road in the opposite direction. We drove from Bluff to Monument Valley as part of a far longer road trip.
The route begins at the Utah-Arizona border near Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park. This is one of the most photographed landscapes in the world. Even if you've never been here, you’ve seen it. In classic Westerns. Car commercials. Road trip movies. Forest Gump.
It is that long stretch of road with the buttes and mesas standing like ancient stone monuments in the background. The one thing I’ve noticed about Utah Scenic Byways is that even though they are almost all single lane, most of them seem to be newly paved and in great shape. I was impressed with almost all the highways in southern Utah.
Though many visitors mistakenly call it a national park, Monument Valley is wholly within the Navajo Nation and managed as a tribal park. The Navajo people have lived, herded and traded in this land for generations.
The area remains culturally and spiritually significant. Much of the land is only accessible with a Navajo guide. If you’ve got time, take one of those guided tours. You’ll learn more in two hours than you could in two days on your own.
I would suggest you take the short drive from the highway into the Tribal Park which is about 3-4 miles. That is the only way you can see the iconic Mittens. You can’t see them from the highway. It is definitely worth the short drive.
The valley’s fiery red sandstone buttes, mesas and spires are the work of wind and water erosion over millions of years. Some rise 1,000 feet from the valley floor.
On a clear day, the blue sky and golden light create an amazing display you will want to capture whether with a camera or just in your memory. Today’s smartphones almost do it all for you.
Just north of the Monument Valley visitor area is an unassuming stretch of highway that has become iconic in its own right. Forrest Gump Point, as it is now called, is the spot where Tom Hanks’ character ended his long cross-country run in the movie.
A small sign even marks the location. It has become a photo-op favorite, and yes, it really is worth stopping for. The views you see in photos … mine included … are looking south from Utah towards Arizona.
If you’re driving north from the Arizona border, you’ll have to stop and look back to get this view. There were people all over the road. I’m not sure when photographers get those shots with no people in them. Further down the road there were fewer people but the road angle isn’t as good.
About halfway to Bluff, you will roll through the quirky but picturesque village of Mexican Hat. It is named after a rock formation that looks uncannily like a sombrero. The town itself is tiny but it is a good place to fuel up, grab a snack or wander down to the San Juan River.
The population is listed as 18 which surprises me as it seems like it is bigger. My son-in-law has floated the San Juan River through the Goosenecks and he said that Mexican Hat is where they rented their boats and launched from.
The Mexican Hat formation is visible right from the road so it makes for a great pit stop photo if you are so inclined. So many people just blast right through on their way to the next stop.
We didn’t stop as we had stopped at Goosenecks State Park and were planning on stopping at Monument Valley. Remember, we drove this from Bluff to Monument Valley instead of south to north.
Back on SR-163, the Monument Valley to Bluff Scenic Byway continues north and crosses the San Juan River in Mexican Hat via a historic suspension bridge.
This is the Jason R. Workman Memorial Bridge. It was originally built in 1953 and renamed in 2016 to honor a Navy SEAL from Blanding, Utah who died in Afghanistan.
While driving the Monument Valley to Bluff Scenic Byway, if you’ve got an extra half hour, definitely take the detour just north of Mexican Hat to Goosenecks State Park. It is a short drive but the view is anything but.
Here, the San Juan River has carved a series of deep, winding bends … known as entrenched meanders … into the desert over the course of 300 million years.
Stand at the edge and look down into a twisting chasm more than 1,100 feet deep. It is like a mini Grand Canyon only without the crowd.
No hiking required. No entrance fee. Just jaw-dropping views and wind in your face.
The town of Bluff is your final stop on the byway. Established in 1880 by Mormon pioneers during the Hole-in-the-Rock expedition, Bluff retains a rustic frontier charm. Visit the Bluff Fort Historic Site to learn about their incredible journey and settlement efforts.
Or grab a bite at one of the town’s local eateries. The Twin Rocks Café is well-known if you’re hungry for Navajo tacos or a buffalo burger.
Bluff is also a great basecamp for exploring part of the massive Bears Ears National Monument, Valley of the Gods, Hovenweep National Monument and Edge of the Cedars State Park Museum (further north in Blanding). This is where red rock scenery meets quiet solitude.
Whether you're retracing the path of old stagecoaches, famous western movie scenes or the quiet wanderings of the ancient Ancestral Puebloans, the Monument Valley to Bluff Scenic Byway offers an unforgettable glimpse into Utah’s red rock heart.
In more recent times, the TV series “Dark Winds” was filmed in Monument Valley. One of my favorite old westerns starring Richard Widmark … Cheyenne Autumn … was also filmed within view of Monument Valley.
From sacred mesas to riverside oases, it is a drive where the scenery is the destination. Don’t forget to stop and enjoy it.
As we’ve gotten older, my wife and I have finally learned to slow down and enjoy the journey more instead of always racing to the next destination. I like this way much more.
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